There was a strict protocol for mourning dress for those who could afford it, but even the financially-strapped tried to observe some semblance of bereavement. First Mourning lasted for one year and a day. Widows wore only simple matte black, no shiny jewelry, including diamonds, and wore a black crape veil. The mourning veil was worn over the entire head, including the face for six months then pulled back from the face for the remaining six months (and one day). Second Mourning lasted for nine months in which the veil was removed or not, according to social standard, less matte black was worn. During Third Mourning, or “ordinary” mourning, darker grey graduated to shades of light grey and silver. The fabrications were more fancy, including velvet and silk, accented with black wraps and veils (per social custom). Accents of shiny jewelry and trim were also acceptable. Finally Half Mourning was adopted and lasted for a final year. The return of color (purple, maroon, dark green, and deep blue) was socially accepted, accented with shiny jewelry and trim. The fashionable widows sometimes announced their return to the social circles with a Lavender tea, a formal gathering which she appeared in her lavender toilette.
Note: To complicate the already dizzying array of rules, the fashionable set certain rimes for each period of grieving, depending on the relationship of the deceased to the family. Thus it was simpler and less expensive to have only dual use colors in ladies’ frocks and forego the introduction of red, yellow, and some blue color tones. These colors most often appeared as ball gowns and formal occasion dresses.
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